Maximal impact, minimal effort
This week was the first time I grabbed a light jacket on the way to work, and I plan to mostly embrace Autumn’s cool aura with sophisticated and somewhat somber ensembles. Key word here is “mostly”. Serious fashion is maximized by a touch of levity, a whimsical flourish to add cheeky personality to even the most serious fashion statement. And what better place for fun flair than the tippy top of your hair? I got the idea from the Paris Spring 2015 Fashion Shows, where ornamental accessories added a touch of irreverent opulence to many a model mane. Inspirational items included a simple gold ring (Céline), graphic comb (Lanvin), gilded headband (Valentino), or a few fresh floral blooms (Dolce &Gabbana). The Spring of 2014 will forever be known (in my mind at least) as the Season of Guido Palau, who lovingly fastened gorgeous custom pieces into place at all three of those fashion houses. With Palau on the forefront, there’s a breath of fresh innovation flowing from the east and set to make a mark out west.
Let’s break down the key details of Spring 2015’s designer hair decor.
On the Celine Spring 2015 runway, hairstylist Guido Palau accentuated models’ casually textured hair with golden barrettes personally designed by Celine Designer Phoebe Philo. Slender golden circles neatly held hair in chic half back hairstyle that offered a glimmer of glamour as each model turned and walked back down the runway. “The hair is pulled half back, which is a very classic style,” Palau explained to Allure Magazine, “We sprayed freshly washed hair with Redken Windblown, a texturizing spray, to add natural-looking movement… Then we placed the hair in this beautiful gold ring, which elevated the quite simple hairstyle into something super-rich. It’s kind of amazing what a hair accessory can do.” Even cooler, these hair pieces are almost identical to the signature hardwear on Celine’s latest it-bag offering, a strappy leather pouchette forged of brown and black leather.
2. Lanvin: Combs In Chignons
AtLanvin’s 125th anniversary show, Palau tucked gold combs beneath classic chignons to “give them a bit of glamour.” The low placement and understated sophistication lent the hairstyle a graphic, structured edge. “It’s a nice way of using a hair comb,” Palau told Allure Magazine, “It gives the look a little bit ofchicness and glamour, and it also makes a simpleknot feel more special.” Simultaneously elegant and modern, the hairstyles at Lanvin beautifully straddled the fine line between honoring one’s fashion roots and looking forward to the next big thing. Best of all, these neat knots are easily replicated and accessorized by fashionistas from LA to NYC. Lanvin looked forward and reminded us that good taste will never go out of fashion.
3. Valentino: Mermaid Tiaras
“It’s almost like she’s been in the sun for the first time,” Palau sad of the modern mermaid hairstyles he created for Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2015 Fashion show, “There’s a real softness to conjure up the spirit of the summer, with waves and a center part that hangs slightly over the ears.” After spraying damp strands with texturizing spray, the model’s hair was scrunched and set with a blowdry.Then, Palau curled sections at random and then gathered the hair into a deconstructed, beachy half ponytail. Good hairdressing aside, the real genius was once again in hair accessorization, this time with a gold shell studded tiara Ariel would have almost certainly gone mute for. This Season’s muse was The 18th Century Custom of a ‘Grand Tour’, or finishing school/summer vacation abroad hybrid during which elite young ladies would spend months promenading glamorously through Italy. I’m especially smitten with the way Palau wrapped pieces of hair around the accessory, as if human and ocean came together as one long-submerged wonder.
4. Dolce & Gabbana: Ruby Blooms
“Feminine, soft, pretty—this is how girls want to look,” Palau told reporters backstage at the Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2015 Show. Dolce & Gabbana’s latest collection is Spanish inspired, specifically by Kingdom of Sicily’s rich aesthetic during Habsburg rule stretching from 1516-1713. Palau accentuated the designer’s matador red dresses and gold-embroidered flats with fresh ruby roses and carnations. After blowing it smooth, Palau gathered the model’s hair into romantic gatherings that sat low and a little loose. Those gorgeous, saturated blooms were randomly added along with lacquered ornamentation to strike the perfect balance of whimsy and passion.
5. Fendi: Crocodile Tail Hair
More “fierce” than “feminine”, the Lagerfeld-designed leather flowers at Fendi Spring/Summer 2014 were attached to “crocodile tails” and pinned on top of the models’ messy, sexy ponytails. Yes: crocodile tail hair. Dreamt up by hairstylist Sam McKnight (presumably to give Guido Palau a run for his money), the crocodile tail begins as a low-slung, vastly volumized ponytail with tons of semi-messy texture. Then came the oversized leather flower dripping down into long tail shaped flap and ending just above the hair tips.
6. Bottega Veneta: Floral Combs
“It’s almost like gym hair,” Guido Palau said of the undone knots he created for Bottega Veneta’s Spring/Summer 2015 Runway Show. After working his usual texturing/blowdry magic, Palau wound the length of the model’s hair into a loose, après-sport bun with unfinished ends and a few face framing flyaways. The chic concoction was topped by delicate, jewel encrusted floral combs for an intoxicating hint of femininity.
7. Missoni: Patterned Turbans
For the Missoni Spring/Summer 2015 Runway Show, hairstylist Paul Hanlon topped sleek buns and ponytails with the label’s signature color saturated scarves. Missoni has long been a bastion of modern bohemia, and the inspiration for Spring’s sensual hairstyle is no exception. Novelist Zadie Smith was the muse for the bold faux-turbans Hanlon fashioned out of winding scarves and padded topknots seen on some of Missoni’s runway models. He began by winding the scarves an inch back from the forehead, and into a customized conical headwrapping that rested tightly over ballerina buns. “There’s a 1940s chic to it,” Paul Hanlon said of his creation “plus it’s great for the eyes!”.